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The Best Way to Decorate a Living Room WithSolid Wood Flooring

I am sure that is a good finish, however if you want to maintain its value as an antique, do not remove the patina. (the oldness including the stains) just clean it as you have done, then a nice liquid lemon pledge...not spray btl

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1. If buying a used pool table, what should I look for?

A good quality pool table will last a lifetime. Name brands like Brunswick, Olhausen, and Diamond are your best bet, but there are smaller companies that make well built tables that might be cheaper. If you do not go with one of those brands, look for an American made table (or European if live across the pond, just nothing Chinese), that's made of solid wood (not laminate), and has 3/4 inch slate or thicker. I would never buy a table that's already disassembled. You want to see it assembled and see that's it's in good shape and nice and sturdy. You really have to abuse a good quality table for it to fall apart on you, so as long as they were not keeping it in a garage or outside, there's no obvious signs of abuse or damage, and no alterations made to the table, it's probably going to last a long time if it's a quality table.

2. How do I refinish solid wood kitchen cabinets that have a factory white painted finish?

First make sure it's paint, not a thin laminate. If it's a laminate you can use a sharpened putty knife to scrape it off. If it is paint, get a paint remover solution and follow the instructions. Paint removing solution is ideal since it makes taking off paint off non flat trim and crevices. The paint will blister and get gooey. Scape it off with putty knife. Make sure you clean off the paint remover very thoroughly. VERY IMPORTANT. Let it dry thoroughly, then use a fine grit sandpaper to smooth the wood. Use a tack sheet to remove all fine wood dust. Then finally you can apply the finish of your choice

The Best Way to Decorate a Living Room WithSolid Wood Flooring 2

3. Tips for Installing Nosing or Edging Strips on Stairs

Measure the length of each stair, using a tape measure. If the stairs are open on one or both sides, you can simply set the nosing in place and mark where to cut it. Mark the nosing, then cut it to length, as needed, using a hacksaw or tin snips. With aluminum nosing, be careful not to leave metal burrs along the cut edge (aluminum is prone to this). If you see burrs, use a metal file to remove them and smooth the edge. Test the fit by placing the strip tightly on the corner of the stair tread. If your strip has a curved side, this side will go on the top (the tread) of the stair. The flat side with the nail holes will rest against the riser (front) of the stair. Make sure that the nails will meet solid wood. On most wood steps, there is solid wood where the nails go, but at the top step (at floor level) you may be dealing with layers of flooring, underlayment, and subflooring. The best way to check this out is to press a nail point-first firmly into the holes of the strip, then remove the strip. You will see dots on the wood where the nails hit. Another approach is to drive the nails at a downward angle for better holding power. Nails driven straight into plywood edges simply separate the layers of plywood and do not hold well. Nail the nosing strip in place, working from one end to the other. If there is solid wood behind the strip, drive the nails straight in (horizontally). Otherwise, drive them at a downward angle of no more than about 30 degrees. If the angle is too sharp, the nail heads may not sit flush to the nosing. Be sure to install nosings on all of the steps. Steps are safest when they are identical. Having nosing on some steps and not others creates a trip or slip hazard.

4. I want to install a pull up bar on my wall put not on a normal type of wall. A solid wood panel wall.?

i do not think it a good idea. unless that wood is at least 2 inches thick, you would definitely need it screwed into studs. (& pre-drill those holes, and you would want to use good sized screws) but 2 inches or studs, unless that bar extends quite a ways out, it will be too close to the wall. if damage was not an issue, and there was a doorway with a good solid frame, i would pre-drill and screw into that, using screws long enough to hit the 2X4 behind.

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