What Do Cops Think About This? a Real Way to Fight Speeding Tickets?

What do cops think about this? A real way to fight speeding tickets?

What Do Cops Think About This? a Real Way to Fight Speeding Tickets? 1

First of all.ALL equipment is subject to being faulty. This particular "device" is a system on the market where parents can "watch" their siblings from the home computer. It is based upon the GPS Tracking systems and fairly accurate. Radar detection is extremely accurate and its information is up to date and immediate whereas the GPS tracking is not. At least not with the system used by this particular commercial company. You will also learn that the only "accurate" GPS systems are those of the military whereas the civilian models are SLIGHTLY altered. A very interesting argument, however, I believe the case will be remanded back to the original courts decision.

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Points system

Championship points were awarded according to the follow table. In rounds 9 & 10 points were split equally between drivers sharing the car, each being awarded half the number of tabled points for the round.

What Do Cops Think About This? a Real Way to Fight Speeding Tickets? 2

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Time constant of second order system

Time constant for a system should be calculated based on the closed loop transfer function.For the open loop transfer function you are considering, the closed loop transfer function is given by: $$TF = fracG(s)1 G(s)H(s)$$For a unity feedback: $H(s) = 1$ beginalign therefore TF &= fracfraca(sb)(sc)1 fraca(sb)(sc) &= fraca(sb)(sc) a &= fracas^2 (bc)s (a bc) endalign Write the above equation in the form: $$TF = fracas^2 2zetaomega_n s omega_n^2$$ where: $2zetaomega_n = (bc)$ and $omega_n^2 = (a bc)$.The time constant is given by $T = frac1zetaomega_n$. You would get this same value when you break the second-order system into two first order systems and then find their corresponding time constants. And finally, use the formula that you have stated.

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Why doesn't my A/C work?

If the A/C blows cool at idle but blows warm when you start driving then you probably have a little too much freon in the system. The A/C system has safety switches to protect the compressor. One kills the compressor when the pressure drops too low and another kills the compressor if the pressure gets too high. When a system is overcharged it will sometimes stay below the high pressure mark at an idle so things seem normal but the increased rpm's of driving will cause the compressor to exceed the cutoff pressure and turn off the A/C compressor. If you "Topped it off" without a pretty solid understanding of how to determine when it is "full" then that is very likely the problem. EDIT based on your additional information; It was low due to a leak, A/C systems are sealed systems so they should never be low when they are in normal condition. The head repair is unrelated unless an O-Ring or A/C hose was damaged in the tear down or reassembly. If the leak is very slow then you can get by awhile by occasional recharging but you need to understand how to determine a full status. An A/C shop usually removes all the freon and recharges it with the factory recommended amount, to "top off" the system correctly at home requires a good set of gauges and knowledge about how to determine what pressure range is acceptable for the environmental conditions that are present at the time of charging (mainly how hot it is outside). The cheap gauges that can be bought for the recharge cans are not very good, they usually have a color range that is supposed to get you close but they only monitor the low pressure port so they are frequently wrong. I usually let out enough freon to put a can of freon die into the system to find the leak. Then I let all the freon out and replace the hose or O-Ring that is leaking (not the only things that leak but usually the culprit). Then I connect a Harbor Freight vacuum pump to the system and let it run for an hour. Then I recharge the system by jumping a hot wire to the compressor until I get enough freon in the system for the systems cut off switch to send power to the compressor. Then I slowly add freon until the high pressure side reaches the pressure window I am shooting for, if I question whether the leak is fixed or if I got them all, I recharge with one can of die before finishing with regular freon. This helps for future diagnosis if the freon level keeps dropping. If you are very quick in replacing the O-Ring or hose that is leaking you can usually get by without replacing the dryer and that will save you some money, just do not leave the system "open" for very long.

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